Bez Ambar started his career as an artist from an early age. He moved to London and studied painting and sculpture. He applies his classical artistic training to all his designs, using gold as his canvas and diamond as his palette. In 1979, Bez conceived of a square-shaped diamond with faceting to rival the round brilliant. Bez used his artistic intuition, directing diamond cutters through a long process of trial and error. The result: the modern Princess cut diamond.
Bez soon came to the United States to market his new creation. He founded Ambar Diamonds in 1980, but found an unreceptive market for his new cut. Designers didn''t know how to use the new stone in their jewelry, and retailers didn''t know how to market it. So Bez applied his artistic talents to the problem, and started designing his own line of jewelry. Under the trademark name Quadrillion, Bez created one of the most innovative and influential jewelry lines of the twenty-first century. The ATW ring, was recognized with a DeBeers Award and defined the pinnacle of metal and diamond working for its era.
As the square-shaped diamond grew in popularity, Bez realized that the greatest advantage of a square-shape over a round-shape is that squares can sit flush, one against the other, creating an illusion of unbroken brilliance. He set out to find a new method of setting square diamonds seamlessly side by side. After much trial and error Bez created the first piece of prong-less, border-less diamond jewelry, and coined the term ''invisible setting.''
With the success of invisible setting for square diamonds, Bez turned his attention to round diamonds. Seeking to create a facade of pure diamond brilliance, unobstructed by prongs or metal channels, Bez adapted his technique. Bez named this new form of invisible setting for round diamonds ''Boundless.''
While freeing the diamond from the confines of medieval metal working and allowing the stone''s brilliance to sparkle unobstructed from edge to edge, Bez kept his eye on high fashion. In 1999, sensing a new trend about to break, Bez launched his ''Pave'' collection. Featuring hundreds, sometimes thousands of tiny diamonds set in a single piece. In order to accomplish this while maintaining a clean look, Bez pioneered the technique of ''Micro-pave:'' setting with the use of a microscope.
Meanwhile, Bez also began using colored diamonds. Pink, yellow, and most often black to create more modern and stylistic jewelry. Bez combined different colors of gold from white to yellow to black with the colored stones to create one of a kind jewelry masterpieces. The large colored center stones led Bez to another realization about the play between many tiny facets of Pave and the more intense colors of larger square diamonds. He created the ''Windows'' collection to take advantage of the play between sparkling pave and the more striking brilliance of larger square stones.
After decades of pondering the world''s most valuable stones, Bez realized that the most unique quality of a diamond is how it breaks the light. This realization lead to a drastic departure from traditional diamond cutting. To highlight a diamond''s ability to bend and refract light, Bez designed a cut with fewer, larger facets. Bigger facets result in more fire. The blaze cut has only 13 main facets, while most cuts have over 50 facets. This means the blaze cut produces bursts of vivid colors fire many times larger than any other diamond cut.